Print out this list and check each item off as it is satisfied. Bring a 10-power loupe and a soft cloth. Oh, and have fun.

Color: No matter what color, think vivid hue, clear-consistent tone, and vibrant intensity. Make sure the color holds its tone over white and black surfaces, doesn’t wash out when looked directly down upon, and maintains vibrancy in changing light sources

Clarity: Remember, flaws are a good thing, just as long as they aren’t cracks or chips that will weaken the stone, or other inclusions which block consistency of color and light passage.

Transparency: Think blurry and hazy. You don’t want to read any fine print through the stone, but you do want to see through it.

Carat Weight: Think price per carat for stones between 1/2 and 3/4 carat, and millimeter size for smaller stones. Beware of "total weight" labels on set stones. Only pay carat price for the stone.

Cut and Style: Most sapphires over one carat are given a mixed oval or cushion cut. Remember proportion and symmetry, look at the profile and watch for windows and uneven reflection of light, height of crown vs. depth of pavilion, centering of culet, sharp facets and a smooth, clean finish.

Treatments: Four rules,

1. Almost all sapphires on the market have been heat treated. Demand documentation for any claims otherwise.
2. Ask to have any stone cleaned in an ultrasonic, this will reveal oiling and dyeing.
3. Ask about surface diffusion. Remember, jewelers are only obliged to disclose treatments if you ask.
4. Have all treatments clearly identified on the bill of sale.

Synthetics and Fakes: Four rules,

1. If the price is too good to be true, it is too good to be true.
2. Know your stones, and your glass too.
3. Watch for words like "created" or "cultured," they mean synthetic.
4. If a jeweler insists a sapphire is natural, get it in writing.

Deceptive practices: Four rules,

1. With fine gemstones, there are no unbelieveable bargains.
2. Look for spots of inconsistent luster from glass fillings.
3. Look out for foil backing.
4. Be extra careful around bezel or closed back settings. They can hide any flaw or fraud.

If you have any doubts on any of the above items, make your purchase contingent on an impartial appraisal. Get all treatments and guarantees clearly stated on your bill of sale.