It’s all about proportion. Don’t be sold on a beautiful crown if the pavilion is too deep.
The term "cut" covers "shape," "proportion, "style" and "finish".
Quality cut is somewhat subjective, so think symmetry.

Of course the cut of a sapphire is crucial. But after color and clarity, it ranks a distant third in the valuing process. Remember sapphires are cut to maintain maximum weight while exhibiting optimal color and brilliance. Keep these things in mind when evaluating cut:

1. Sapphires of over a carat are almost always cut to a mixed (variety of facet styles) oval or cushion shape (cushions can either be square or rectangle, and will have soft, curves and corners.) There are exceptions, but approach with caution.
2. Rounds typically cost more than ovals or cushions in any size. So, compare rounds with rounds, ovals with ovals, etc.
3. Make sure you examine the cut from the side. This is the best way to determine symmetry and depth proportion between the crown (top) and pavilion (bottom).
4. Closely examine the culet (bottom point) for centering. An off-center culet will throw off the overall symmetry faster than you can say "next stone please."
5. When examining the stone from the top, make sure you have it a few inches off the table or other surface. If you can see through the sapphire, that’s a window, and they invariably detract from overall brilliance. Think semitransparent.
6. Remember, as long as symmetry and proportion look right, the main function of sapphire cut is to bring out color and brilliance and should be judged particularly on those grounds.

Keeping these few things in mind, you’ll soon be spotting proportionate, brilliant sapphires right along with the pros. And, since different jewelers value quality cuts on a somewhat individual basis, you might even find yourself a real bargain.

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