Shopping checklist and tourmaline occasional gift giving

You're ready to go shopping for tourmaline. Simply print out this sheet and take it with you to the jeweler's. As each item on the list is satisfied, you will be honing in on the perfect tourmaline for you. And don't forget the most important shopping rule: have fun!

Pink tourmaline is the alternate birthstone, along with opal, for the month of October. It is also the traditional gift for 8th wedding anniversaries.

Color

Determine which type of tourmaline you are looking at, as this plays a huge role in value. From most to least valuable, the types of tourmaline are:

1. Paraiba - Neon blue and green. Up to $15,000 per carat.
2. Rubellite - Ruby red (don't confuse with regular red tourmaline.) Up to $2,000 per carat. Rubellite red will maintain its luster indoors and out. Regular reds tend to reveal brownish tones indoors and will sell for well under $500 per carat.
3. Chrome - Emerald green. Up to $1,000 per carat. If you're not sure that the stone is really chrome, have the dealer perform the "Chelsea" filter test. If it reveals reddish tones, you're looking at true chrome. Other green tourmaline, although beautiful, can be yours for a fraction of the chrome price.
4. Indicolote - Covers a wide range of blues. Most for well below $1,000 a carat.
5. Gold, yellow and orange - top quality is yours for under $400 a carat.
6. Colorless, white and black - Very inexpensive.
7. Color change - highly prized and very expensive. Look for distinct color change.
8. Bi or tri-color - Pink flanked by green (watermelon) most common.
9. Cat's eye - Many colors. Up to $500 per carat.

Value factors

1. Look for pure, consistent color. Examine from top, bottom and profile over various backgrounds and under different light sources. Always compare stones of similar color.
2. Except for the red varieties, most tourmaline is readily available "eye-clean" (free from flaws.) But apply the same examination process for clarity as you did for color. If large black areas or cracks are revealed, look for another stone.
3. Since tourmaline comes in so many colors, always compare stones of the same size and overall quality. Think in terms of price-per-carat, not total cost. Beware of "total cost" price tags on jewelry. Don't pay paraiba per carat cost (up to $10,000) for gold settings.
4. Almost all tourmaline is heat treated for color enhancement. It is considered totally acceptable and stable. Red tourmaline is frequently irradiated for improved color. This treatment is also acceptable, but strong heat can cause the color to fade. Re-treatment will restore the color.
5. Always ask your dealer what treatments have been done and get them clearly printed on your bill of sale.