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Round and trilliant cut tanzanite will cost more than other cuts.
Examine the stone from all sides; think symmetry and proportion.
Look out for large "windows" on top of the stone and off center "culets" (bottom points.) These are sure signs of low quality.
Tanzanite is available in a wide variety of cuts and styles. From a simple cabochon (dome shaped) cut, to elaborate carvings, you pretty much have free reign to choose whatever style suits your fancy.
Although cut and style play a far smaller role in valuing tanzanite than do color, clarity and carat weight, there are a few cutting/style factors that will affect the cost of your stone.
- Expect to pay a higher price for trilliant (a "brilliant" 58 faceted triangular cut) or round cut tanzanite than pear shaped or emerald shapes. This is due to the unavoidable loss of rough stone in cutting such refined shapes.
- Because of naturally high transparency in tanzanite, many top European designers take extra time exploring unique faceting concepts to see just how brilliant their luster can be. These cuts will demand top dollar as well.
- Keep in mind that lower quality stones will almost always be priced alike, regardless of cut and style.
So, just how do you go about judging the quality of cut in tanzanite? As with any gemstone, the best way to evaluate workmanship is to look at a lot of stones. As you examine the stones, think of these things:
- Ask your jeweler to explain the many terms used to define cut and style.
- Think in terms of proportion and symmetry.
- Can you read the newspaper through a large "window" when looking directly into the top of the stone? That's not good. Large windows used to be popular and are still found in antique jewelry, but modern styles attempt to de-emphasize such effects.
- Also when looking through the top, look for dark spots (called extinction.) You will almost see some areas of extinction, but with tanzanite, this should be minimal.
- Is the culet (bottom point) centered? Very important.
- Observe the stone from the profile. Think overall depth. You don't want the crown (top) to be too high, or the pavilion (bottom) to be too deep. The best way to envision proper depth, keep the image of diamond profiles you see all the time in mind, like those used for grading hotels, jeweler's advertisements, etc. That's the paradigm of good depth percentage.
Answer to quiz: b
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