• Chemical bleach is a popular color enhancer, but eats nacre.
• All pearls are tumbled clean upon removal from the shell.
• Always ask your jeweler about beeswax tumbling or other luster enhancements.

Just because pearls come out of the shell in their full glory, doesn’t mean their beauty can’t be enhanced. However, there are acceptable enhancements and there are unacceptable enhancements. Here’s a couple tips on what to look for and ask about in pearl evaluation.

1. All pearls are cleaned in a tumbler with warm soapy water and a touch of salt as a gentle abrasive agent. This process removes sediment, odor and brings the luster to the surface. This practice is completely acceptable and will not damage the pearls in any way.

2. Some pearls are tumbled extra long to remove surface nicks, enhance shape and improve luster in lower quality gems. Although this isn’t deceptive, it could wear down the nacre. Beeswax is also occasionally added to the tumbling process to enhance lustrousness. Again, this is okay as long as you are aware of the treatment at point of purchase because it is not permanent.

3. Tumbling in chemical compounds gets a little trickier. The enhanced lustrousness lasts longer than the beeswax treatment, but it is not permanent, and the chemicals can wear off layers of precious nacre. Always ask your jeweler about treatments.

4. Remember to look for deep luster, not surface shine. The thicker the nacre, the deeper the luster. If you are suspicious about a shiny topcoat, have the pearls examined for nacre thickness. Any qualified gemologist can do this for you.

5. There are also color enhancements the most prevalent of which is chemical bleaching for whiteness. Ironically this treatment is performed on thin nacred pearls, but the bleach actually eats away at what little nacre there is. There are also dyes and silver nitrate and irradiation color enhancements to watch out for.

All of the above treatments are considered either fully or at least partly acceptable. They only become deceptive when not fully disclosed. With that in mind, here are a few more misrepresentations to look out for.

1. Setting three-quarter or half pearls into settings and selling them as whole.

2. Adding a lacquer coating, or other tricks to make pearls appear round when they are not. Fully round pearls are far more valuable than those that are semi-spherical.

3. Using epoxy to fill large pits and then coating the filling with pearlessence.

4. Selling imitation pearls as natural. The simple tooth test will tell the difference. Gently scrape the pearl along the ridges of your top teeth. If it glides easily, it’s fake. If you feel a slight gritty abrasive, it’s most likely cultured or natural.

5. Selling cultured pearls as natural. Always ask for X-ray test results to back up such claims.

6. There are many varieties of pearls on today’s market. However, some nicknames like "Atlas Pearls," or "Kultured Pearls" are simply imitations. Beware of fancy monikers.

With so many beautiful, authentic cultured pearls on the market, there is no need to get ripped off. Keeping an eye out for the above enhancements and misrepresentations can save you a lot of heart ache. Always remember the simple tooth test on any pearl, as it will give away any imitation. Also, don’t be afraid to talk frankly with your jeweler about treatments and have them clearly spelled out on your bill of sale.

Answer to quiz: b